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Capers

The story of the caper dates back thousands of years.  The word for caper comes from the Arabic word kabur.  There is a strong association between the caper plant and oceans and seas due to the proximity of the plant to these areas.  The caper plant is said to be native to the Mediterranean basin, but its range actually stretches from the Atlantic coasts of the Canary Islands, Morocco to the Black Sea, to Crimea and Armenia, and eastward to the Caspian Sea and into Iran.  Capers probably originated from dry regions in west or central Asia.  The shrubby plant, with its many branches, shiny oval leaves, sweetly fragrant blossoms and violet stamens, can be found growing in the cracks and crevices of rocks and stone walls throughout the Mediterreanea.  The caper plant thrives in dry heat and can tolerate harsh sea breezes.  Capers were once used by traveling merchants as informal currency along ancient trade routes.  The Greeks used the roots as an infusion for tea to aid in the relief of rheumatism.  The seeds, leaves and sprouts were also used to reduce inflammation.

Capers are the immature flower bud of the plant.  During the growing season careful attention is paid to the newly formed buds, they must be harvested at just the right moment.  The capers should be completely unopened and buds firm.  Harvesting must be on a dry day.  In Southern Italy buds are collected by hand every 8 to 12 days throughout the growing season, resulting in 9 to 12 harvests during this time.  Small tight, firm buds are the most prized.  Mechanized screens are used to sort the capers by size after harvest.  In Italy they are graded on a scale from 7 to 16, which indicates their size in millimeters.  In French speaking countries they are graded using the term 'nonpareil' or 'surfine' for capers under a centimeter.

It makes sense that capers are an integral element of Mediterranean cuisine.  Their sharp tangy bite often accent fish, pizza, salads and sauces.  To bring about the complex flavors of the caper they must be cured.  They are first dried in the sun and then packed under layers of salt, vinegar, wine or salt brine.  During this process the natural mustard oil intensifies and the capers develop their characteristic piquant flavor.  Many culinary authorities prize capers packed under layers of salt, the flavor being brighter and more intense.  Occasionally one can also find the cured or pickled young sprouts, or leaves of the caper bush also used as a condiment. 

Another popular product of the caper bush is the semi-mature fruit known as caperberries.  The fruit have a long stem, oval shape and thick skin containing hundreds of seeds.  The fruit ranges in size from 1.5 cm to 2.5 cm.  These teardrop shaped fruits do not contain the same piquant flavor of the cured buds of the plant.  After being pickled in a vinegar solution the fruit has a crisp tangy flavor, perfect to serve with pate and other cured meats.